Are debt consolidation services for profit, and non-profit companies reliable?

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This is a guest post by Robin Williams at DebtConsolidationCare.com

The main objective of the debt consolidation companies is to make you debt free. Surviving the credit crunch has become a challenge as corporate giants are closing down shutters and there are many that have declared bankruptcy.

There is a famous quote that says “Survival of the fittest”. Similarly, debt consolidation non profit as well as for-profit companies is competing with each other to offer the best rates to their clients so that they can survive the competition. Undoubtedly, the debt consolidation non profit as well as for profit companies have successfully managed to get many debtors out of debt. However, due to a handful of illegal and unethical debt help companies, the authenticity and the fate of the entire debt help industry is questionable and at stake.

Debt consolidation companies are in business for a common cause and for a larger cause. However, there is no free lunch. So, the quality of service they offer and the fees they charge are 2 important parameters that differentiate the debt help companies from one another.

Read the rest of this entry »

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People I’m learning from right now.

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Learning is a big part of my life. I’m addicted to RSS, because it delivers tidbits of knowledge from every source directly to my reader page every morning. I sit down at my computer, check my messages, and see what I can learn today. Which, I honestly think is a good way to start the day! I wish I’d have started doing it years ago, because hopefully without being too cliche “knowledge is power”.

Why don’t I pay somebody to fix my computer? Because I’ve learned to do it myself.

Why don’t I pay somebody to manage my websites? Because I’ve learned to do it myself.

Why don’t I pay somebody to do my taxes? Because I’ve learned to do it myself.

Knowledge like anything else is varying in its degree of neccesity. I might learn how to build something fascinating today, but tomorrow I might just learn a new cookie recipe. Today I’m learning that I am at an important age. The age where people form most of their wonderful ideas, because they don’t know enough yet to be weighed down by the reality of failure. So, I present a few articles that have inspired me today, and hopefully they will do the same for you.

Financial Lessons Learned From A life In Punk Rock

I was instantly interested in this article. Kevin Lylman who is among other things the organizer of the ever popular music event ‘Vans Warped Tour’. I’ve attended this event myself, and enjoyed it a lot. His interview with Forbes gives insight into how he became a music promoter, and the legacy that unfolded. Also how he’s still kicking himself for dishing out a full partnership stake to his lawyer.

Once a broke student - now a CEO

I’ve never lived off the classic college diet of ramen noodles. I’ve always been fortunate enough to have a better dining selection. I can however sympathize with Betsy McLaughlin’s need to establish her own financial plan. Like her I never grew up with one, both of my parents were awful with money. Now she’s the CEO of Hot Topic, and definately has her paperwork in check.

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How much will it really cost to purchase a home?

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house

Even if you’ve checked your credit, and ran the numbers you may still be under estimating the cost for getting your own home. Here’s a few things to look out for that may cost you a pretty penny.

The majority of the homes for sale right now are either bank owned foreclosures or short sales. A short sale is a house that is not quite foreclosed on yet. Typically the seller is making a deal with the bank that if they can sell their home, and recoup some amount of profit then the bank lets them out of their loan. With the great number of liability properties popping up this makes a good deal for the bank.

There’s nothing wrong with purchasing a short sale or foreclosure (I’m doing so right now!), as long as you’re aware of a few things.  Firstly, short sales are not usually quick dealings. You can offer anything you want, but the bank has to approve this offer before you can close. Depending on how picky the lender is this could take many months. If you’ve got time to wait like I do then this is no big deal for you. However, if you need to relocate sooner than later you may need to avoid this type of dealing, and search for regular listings that will close faster.

Secondly, you’ll want to be sure to thoroughly inspect a home before purchasing it. You should do this with any home you purchase, but certainly a foreclosure or short sale. When a person is losing their home it really gives them no reason to take care of it, and you can never be sure what type of damage or repairs the house has sustained in years past. If you’re working with a lender then you will most likely be required to hire a home inspector, but if you pay cash then it may be up to you. I would certainly recommend doing it even if you aren’t strong armed into it. As a side note if you’ve already signed a purchase contract, but the inspection reveals facts that could affect the value of the home that you were not previously aware of you can walk away.

Forgetting closing costs, and down payment here’s some other things you could be expected to pay for out of pocket. Depending on where you live all of these may not be the case, but it is in the state of Florida.

Home inspection $300

Home surveyed (Based on home square footage $80 - $200 a sq foot)

Property Appraisal ($250 -$400)

First year’s taxes (Varies depending on home value)

First year’s insurance premium (Varies by area and home value)

Escrow ($500 for your offer contract, and up to $2,000 after your offer is accepted)

Loan processing fee (I know Bank of America will charge you a pretty $400 to start working on your loan)

Mortgage points (If you mortgage requires points you could pay a couple extra hundred or thousands of dollars)

Private Mortgage Insurance $1,000 a year(If you don’t put enough money down your bank may make you get this to protect THEM.)

Some other factors you should be aware of that could save you big bucks are..

Buy outside the flood zone - Buying in the flood zone will make your insurance much higher. Not to mention you may actually flood!

Watch the property tax assesement - If you use a site like Zillow or even read the paper work that the realtor hands you then you can get an idea of the property taxes you’ll be paying. Similar homes can have very different taxes depending on what they’re assesed at. If your property taxes are $3,000 a year you’ll be paying about $250 a month, but if they’re $1200 a year you’ll make out at $100.

Check out the area - Buying in an undesirable area could affect you should you ever want to resell your home. Pay attention to your potential new neighbors - they’re property affects yours.

Wind mitigation - If you live in a high risk storm area like I do you may want to get wind mitigation. This is where an inspector comes to your property, and either gives you a passing grade or suggests repairs. If you get their seal of approval your insurance rates could drop dramatically. This could include things like a new roof or hurricane shutters.

Be aware of future repairs - If you buy a home that is hooked up to a well or septic system you could be spending a bundle to be hooked up to public utilities down the road. Sometimes the local government even makes it mandatory for you to do so! This can cost thousands of dollars.

Watch for association fees - Some communities may have fees you’re required to pay to live there. These could be anywhere from $50 a month to a couple hundred dollars a month, and aren’t always voluntary. These might be for lawn care, grounds maintenence, club houses, community pools, ect.

Make sure a “TLC home” is really for you - As hard as a real estate agent may try to convince you that a home only needs minor repairs make sure that it’s true! You don’t want to move into your home, and find out that “TLC” costs a lot more than you can afford or it’s work you can’t do. Make sure you have them elaborate on damages - if you don’t think you can handle more than small cosmetic details like paint, and carpet then keep looking.

Do a walkthrough before closing - In this long drawn out process you’ll want to make sure you walk the home again before you close to make sure nothing has changed. If you buy a home with no warranty (most foreclosures and short sales are) you’ll be stuck with repairs.

Be present for your inspection - You’ll want to know everything that the home inspector finds. Make sure you walk with him, and that you really learn about what you’re purchasing.

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Where are the best interest rates hiding?

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It’s always a cat and mouse game to get the best interest rates. Don’t just believe whatever your local banker tells you. They’re getting paid to secure your investment! Just because they say that’s the best rate available doesn’t mean it is.

I surprised a bank employee who was trying to get me to get into an investment account when I told her how I’d calculated out how breaking a CD, taking a penalty, and moving to another bank would actually save me money. Since I was infact paying off a car loan, and investing in a new CD that would be several points higher than what they were offering. It pays to do your home work.

Sometimes you may have to go beyond your home town to get the best rates though! My local bank of choice has been Sun Trust partly because of the abundence of free ATMs, but mostly because at the time they were offering me a very attractive CD rate. Since then their numbers have reached almost painful lows. They were offering my something in the 2% range some months ago, and I told them no thanks.

I moved my cash investment to Capital One, and got a much more attractive 5.50% - since I’ve locked in my rate their tiers have dropped significantly too. I also had a nice High Yield Savings for 4% that has since took a tumble.

I still believe the best deals are online, and I’m even pondering an elaborate strategy of bouncing money from one account to the other when the return gets too low to bare it anymore.

The amount of time you plan to invest, and the amount of money you have typically effect the outcome of your interest rate. Gmac is looking promising, but no clue how long they’ll hold that position. I’m looking into an account with them as I’m no longer impressed with Capital One.

Savings Accounts

Capital One - 3 % * On balances over $10k (I’d just invest that amount in a CD for higher return..)

GMAC - 3.20 % (Starting at $500)

At first glance it doesn’t seem like a big deal, but if you read the fine print you’ll see that any investment under $10,000 will only garner you a 1.5% interest rate.. ouch.

Certificate Of Deposits

Again the differences aren’t apparent until you read the fine print, and compare the amount of time you have to invest, and amount of cash you have to put in to the rate you’ll be getting.

Capital One - 4.00% (Minimum $5,000 deposit, and a term of 5 years)

GMAC - 4.00% (Minimum of $500, and a term of 5 years)

Capital One’s highest rate is actually 4.75%, but you’ll have to invest for an additional 5 years to get that extra bit! Gmac has much better deals for shorter term CDs or people without a lot to invest.

12 months - 3.75%

18 months - 3.50%

2 years - 3.65%

If you noticed the fee tiers shrink a bit when you get into certain date ranges. I would presume that’s supposed to make you hand over your money for the longest amount of time since it offers the most attractive rate.

I will say Capital One has an interesting account that I haven’t tried yet. It offers a lower interest rate than their main account, but also gives you rewards for savings instead of spending. Though, since I never got anything in the way of rewards from their credit cards I asssumed their saving account would be the same way, and took a higher interest rate instead. If anybody has tried this account I’d love to hear how it went for you though!

Banks are being stingy with their interest rates, and you’re going to have to bum around for the deal that works best for you. If all of this seems like too much work you might want to go with a longer CD term if you don’t need your money for too long. Be careful in calculating though or you’ll have to pay a fee to get your funds. I think CDs are a good balance of stablity, and liquid funds personally. Some people need that lingering ‘penalty’ to keep them from spending up their savings on every whim! My Uncle comes to mind - He told his family they’d be having a cheap Christmas, and then he bought a boat.

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